With the weekend fast drawing to a close, I wanted to get one more thing done before calling it a day. As there really wasn't much time to dive into anything too involved, I decided to get Cap's shield off the work bench and on to the painting hutch. . .
To this end, I applied 2-3 light coats of Rustoleum Painter's Touch® Ultra Cover 2x Primer-Black. Some of you might wonder why I decided on using a black primer. In spite of it being all the rage, it is not an application I endorse. In this case, however, it is the right call as the primer will serve double duty as primer and undercoat: the lacquers can now be applied directly to the primed sur- faces of the shield.
More to follow. . .
26.01.2015 - The shield has been lacquered--G-S Mr. Metal, of course! The face of the shield was lacquered with a 50:50 mix of Stainless Steel and Chrome; while the back of the shield was lac- quered with pure Stainless Steel. This creates a subtle tonal difference under normal lighting that will be enhanced as the back of the shield will be largely in shadow once mounted.
I will tackle the shield fittings next, along with the white star and the central dk. "blue" roundel. Once that is done, the shield will be permanently attached, and the concentric anodized pale blue roundels painted in-situ.
27.01.2015 - It was one of those days at work. . . so I needed to do something--hopefully, con- structive. After thinking about it virtually every spare moment I had to day, I decided to mask the shield save for the center roundel--with star, and prime this white. It actually came out surpris- ingly well--no bleed-through whatsoever, and unmasking was relatively uneventful. I then painted the center roundel with a 50:50 mix of Reaper's Midnight Blue and UM Blue. As of this writing, I am unsure whether this will serve a mere undercoat, or if I will even things up and use it as a basecoat. More to follow. . .
29.01.2015 - It looks like Cap is going to challenge me even this well-into the proceedings. . . I started painting the inner lt. blue anodized ring when I noticed that the metallic lacquer was 'lift- ing'. This is a new one on me! I pressed-on thinking--hoping!--that it was merely the uppermost layer of paint that had yet to cure, but it was soon apparent that I had worked my way down to the primer!! For some reason, the G-S Mr. Metal had failed to bond with the Rustoleum primer. So. . . into the stripper it went!
The one rule I blatantly violated was that of immiscible layers: I painted a lacquer on a lacquer, rather than a lacquer over an acrylic. Duly noted. Round 2 will 100% "old school": lt. grey primer under a buffed, flat black acrylic undercoat under 2-3 coats of G-S Mr. Metal, with a minimum of 48 hrs. set-up between each step/coat. I'm just glad/relieved I decided to scrub Cap as an entry: a rather painful reminder that this late in the game, it is Mr. Murphy that is calling the shots!
“When the cost of a hobby exceeds the fun and doesn't attract new people, the game is over.” -26.01.2015 - The shield has been lacquered--G-S Mr. Metal, of course! The face of the shield was lacquered with a 50:50 mix of Stainless Steel and Chrome; while the back of the shield was lac- quered with pure Stainless Steel. This creates a subtle tonal difference under normal lighting that will be enhanced as the back of the shield will be largely in shadow once mounted.
I will tackle the shield fittings next, along with the white star and the central dk. "blue" roundel. Once that is done, the shield will be permanently attached, and the concentric anodized pale blue roundels painted in-situ.
27.01.2015 - It was one of those days at work. . . so I needed to do something--hopefully, con- structive. After thinking about it virtually every spare moment I had to day, I decided to mask the shield save for the center roundel--with star, and prime this white. It actually came out surpris- ingly well--no bleed-through whatsoever, and unmasking was relatively uneventful. I then painted the center roundel with a 50:50 mix of Reaper's Midnight Blue and UM Blue. As of this writing, I am unsure whether this will serve a mere undercoat, or if I will even things up and use it as a basecoat. More to follow. . .
29.01.2015 - It looks like Cap is going to challenge me even this well-into the proceedings. . . I started painting the inner lt. blue anodized ring when I noticed that the metallic lacquer was 'lift- ing'. This is a new one on me! I pressed-on thinking--hoping!--that it was merely the uppermost layer of paint that had yet to cure, but it was soon apparent that I had worked my way down to the primer!! For some reason, the G-S Mr. Metal had failed to bond with the Rustoleum primer. So. . . into the stripper it went!
The one rule I blatantly violated was that of immiscible layers: I painted a lacquer on a lacquer, rather than a lacquer over an acrylic. Duly noted. Round 2 will 100% "old school": lt. grey primer under a buffed, flat black acrylic undercoat under 2-3 coats of G-S Mr. Metal, with a minimum of 48 hrs. set-up between each step/coat. I'm just glad/relieved I decided to scrub Cap as an entry: a rather painful reminder that this late in the game, it is Mr. Murphy that is calling the shots!
Oscar Koveleski, August 2003
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