Reference: Batpod Kit Pitfalls to be Avoided

This will be an ongoing list of pitfalls inherent in the kit that frankly should have been caught in the test-shot phase, but apparently were overlooked, or - at worst - disregarded:

• Step 1B -- The hollowed tube on the rt. frame half to which the front chassis connector tube is attached will need to be reduced in length to accommodate the latter--nowhere is this mentioned in the instructions! BUT. . . if you make the front chassis connector tube fit flush against the frame as apparently designed. . . 
• Step 1C -- . . . the shock absorber will not fit correctly: it should be parallel to the frame. You will have to 1) pre-assemble the shock absorber and bracket; 2) remove the locating peg on the bracket; 3) glue the distal end of the shock absorber to its mounting hole on the left side frame brace; and 4) shift the bracket mount laterally towards the left of the locator hole, checking its location by dry-fitting the engine cover. You will then have to fill the exposed locator hole.
• Step 1D -- The lower surfaces of the engine cover are angular, straight edges that begin right where the seam lines are! If you clean the seam lines, you eliminate the distinctive lines of the cover. Proceed with caution. 
• Steps 2 & 3 -- The one-piece wheels have splines that center the tire on the same. The problem is that since the tires are a plasticky vinyl, the splines gouge into the sidewall. Apparently, one is supposed to heat the tires to avoid this (not mentioned in the instructions!); but most on-line discussions recommend removing the splines altogether. I have already done this, but also intend to warm the tires (with hair dryer) before sliding them onto the wheels (nb: 15-30 seconds under a hair dryer set on high works like a charm!).
• Step 2 -- The munitions clusters on either side of the front wheel are hollow cast. Granted, this is relatively insignificant given the size of the tires; but at the right angle, or upon close scrutiny, all the points racked-up by your hard work will vanish in a micro-second! I strongly suggest covering with sheet plastic, or filling with your favorite epoxy putty (I will probably do the latter).
• Step 3B -- The brake pedal. This one doesn't quite make sense--nor does it gibe with the reference photos of the actual vehicle. First of all, the brake pedal should be on the right--if it were an English "bike", OK; but not an American bike. Secondly, all the refshots suggest that this is a textured shim (adjustable?) for the ball of the foot; not an operational component. Finally, the right foot rest is shorter by design. Why? Because the toe "cup" which is the actual brake pedal makes up the balance of the rest's length. I hope that I am right about this as I have already begun the corrections. . .

Check back often as I will add to the list as warranted. . .